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Remember the fishing poles standing up in the corner?

There are 3 other corners in this room, and countless opportunities for leaning long things where cabinets or desks work with the wall to make yet another one.  Far be it from the HUB to waste such opportunities for propping poles!  How can I discourage the stashing? 
OOOOhhhhhh! I can stuff a couple of closed cabinets in the corners at the end of this room!

MAN-SPACE-ORG-7-fishing-roundupMuch to do yet…Much to do….Note the deer antler in the foreground.

FIRST, I’ll need some plans and materials:FISHING ROUNDUP TABLE VERTICAL watermarkedI always sketch my intentions with dimensions.  It keeps me from going off half-cocked and putting the whole thing together backwards.  The problem here is that I can’t seem to find it.  Please enjoy a picture of the stack of materialsFISH CABINET (1)

 I nearly always measure 5 times and sometimes cut twice. A miter saw makes accurate, square cuts much easier than using another type.FISH CABINET (1A)

Build a Cabinet Box

Short instructions:  Build a 4 sided box.  Add 1×4 braces across the back at the top, bottom, and sightly below center.

Be aware that wood cups with the grain.  So alternate end grain patterns when kregging boards together for the sides.  Here is A very good article on Avoiding Cupped Panels.

FISH CABINET (2)Drill one board on its long dimension to prep it as half a cabinet side.FISH CABINET (7)For stability and to keep the sides even and square, I clamped one side panel board to the table, then clamped both boards together.  Then kregged them together…FISH CABINET (7A) (2)Here’s a pic of both sides already put together.  I stacked both sides with the three identical back braces cut from 1x4s.  Two additional boards the same length prevent total collapse.  I felt pretty good by the time I got to this stage of building because I worry about my cabinets being square and this looks [and measured] square!FISH CABINET (9)Two pocket holes in each end of the back braces will give the carcass strength and keep the box from contorting with weight or time.  FISH CABINET (8)MDF or plywood make a weighty and inexpensive top and bottom for the box.  Cut a rectangle to fit on top for the roof and one to fit inside the box for the floor.  Glue and tack them in place.  These could be kregged in, but as I do not plan to move mine once they are in place, I simply glued and tacked the roof and floor in place.


Build a Door

Short Instructions:  Build a rectangular frame from lattice whose outside dimensions match the outside dimensions of the cabinet box.  Add a horizontal lattice inside the frame just below the center.

I used two pennies to raise the door frame from the bottom and one cent spacing at the top to keep my door from being sticky.  Then I taped the side door frame pieces to the box and measured the cross pieces this way…with my eyeball.

FISH CABINET (14)I put the door frame together with  – YEP – Kreg screws.  It is just too easy not to use this method.   Then I mitered some narrow baseboard trim to cover the rough edges of the box top.  FISH CABINET (14A) ed

The boxes at left and below are already trimmed.  I am sorry to say pictures of the top and bottom insertion and the trimming procedure were way too blurry to use, but as I plan to continue my adventures into trimmed box making, I will have tutorial worthy photos for the next wood project – an adjunct headboard.FISH CABINET (18)

 The cabinet looks unfinished, so I made a base of 2x4s.  A tacked on  piece of leftover baseboard makes it look more polished.  The home for this piece hides its sides, so I omitted base trim there.

I mixed some acrylic craft paint 1:4 in water and rubbed it on with a rag.  After the paint dried completely, I covered inside and out with one coat of clear shellac.  Color washing is very easy to over-do.  Less is always more. To illustrate, below,  the cabinet box has one coat green color wash and one coat clear shellac.  The door frame has not been shellacked yet.


Only two tasks remain before I can stash fishing poles.  1. Choosing a backing material for the door.  I tacked on a slab plywood bead board cut 3/8″ larger on each edge than the frame opening.  2. Attaching hinges, magnets, and knobs.  The HUB decided he did not want any hardware on the ourside….Fine with me!

It FITS! And it holds all the poles! I only need to attach the door.
AH-HA ! This one fits too!